There are 3 phases of growth for scalp hair. The time these phases last varies from person to person.

Anagen Phase, or growth phase, is when all new hair growth occurs. During this phase hair grows at its normal rate (an average of one-half inch per month), and 90% of the hairs on your head will be in the anagen phase at any given time. Each specific hair can be in the anagen phase for an average of 3-5 years.

Catagen Phase, 2–3 weeks. The catagen phase is a short transition stage that occurs at the end of the anagen phase. It signals the end of the active growth of a hair. The hair follicle contracts and detaches from the dermal papilla (where it gets its nutrients). The hair bulb disappears and the root end of the hair forms a rounded club. Less than 1% of the hair will be in the catagen phase at any given time.

Telogen Phase, around 3-6 months. The telogen phase is the resting phase of the hair follicle. At any given time, 10%-15% of all hairs are in the telogen phase. This phase lasts for about 100 days. During this phase the hair follicle is completely at rest. This phase lasts until the fully grown hair is shed or after the start of the next anagen phase when it gets pushed out of the follicle. About 25-100 telogen hairs are shed normally each day.

Once the telogen phase ends, the anagen phase of that follicle begins again. The whole cycle repeats on an average of every 4-5 years.

SO WHAT?
Some people will say that if you’ve been trying to grow your hair for over 5 years, you may have to come to terms with the fact that your hair won’t grow as long as you hoped. This may be true for a rare few, but I really believe that anyone can grow long hair, but I do think that certain people can’t appreciate the growth because of their styling techniques and trimming too often. If you’re trying to grow your hair out quicker, my advice is to stop trimming and start taking care of your ends in order to appreciate/retain all of your growth. I was a victim of the idea that I had to trim my ends every 6-8 weeks. Well, guess what? I was trimming off new length. I was so brainwashed that I had to do this for my hair to grow. I was growing my hair out for several years and still no progress because all this length was scattered about on my stylist’s floor. It’s been well over a year since I had a professional trim and I have retained over 6″, the average. This is not my first time going over a year without a trim, but I do think a year is my threshold. I’m probably going to trim off 1/2″ sometime in the next few weeks just to shape up my hair. I ‘search and destroy’ bad ends as often as necessary and I could probably go much longer without a full trim, it’s just a personal preference. If your ends are messed up and you use heat a lot, I suggest getting a good professional trim. It will be like starting from scratch, but hopefully this time around you treat your hair better.

Skin Deep: cosmeticdatabase.com is a safety guide to cosmetics and personal care products brought to you by researchers at the Environmental Working Group. Skin Deep pairs ingredients in more than 25,000 products against 50 definitive toxicity and regulatory databases, making it the largest integrated data resource of its kind. Why? Because the FDA doesn’t require companies to test their own products for safety.

You might be very surprised to see that some of your favorite products have high hazard scores. I saw that many of the products are targeted towards women and children have ingredients that cause developmental/reproductive, toxicity score neurotoxicity, endocrine disruption, organ system toxicity,and even CANCER. Pretty F-ing scary huh?

Here are some links to the most hazardous cosmetics on the market today. I strongly suggest you search the database for products you may be using that may be causing you harm.

HAIR COLOR
RELAXERS
SHAMPOO

The scores go from 0-2 Low Hazard, to 3-6 Moderate Hazard, and 7-10 High Hazard. You might be shocked to see that some products you use aren’t as safe as you thought.

WHAT TO DO WHAT TO DO?

If a product you’re using has a high hazard score, I suggest removing it from your home and lives ASAP. If your product has a moderate hazard I suggest looking for a safer alternative. I’m still on that journey trying to find the safest most effective hair care products. I’m not the authority on what’s safe and what’s not. Readers ask me all the time, “What do you think about XYZ” and my answer to that is my opinion shouldn’t matter, it’s your hair, your body, your health. The database has been helpful to me in making more educated cosmetic purchases and I thought it only right to pass that information onto you. There are people that would put ANYTHING on their heads and then there are people that are 100% organic vegans that are super strict about their hair care purchases. Organic cosmetics ‘ain’t for everybody’, you have to decide for yourself what you will and will not accept in cosmetic products you use and purchase.

There are 3 phases of growth for scalp hair. The time these phases last varies from person to person.

Anagen Phase, or growth phase, is when all new hair growth occurs. During this phase hair grows at its normal rate (an average of one-half inch per month), and 90% of the hairs on your head will be in the anagen phase at any given time. Each specific hair can be in the anagen phase for an average of 3-5 years.

Catagen Phase, 2–3 weeks. The catagen phase is a short transition stage that occurs at the end of the anagen phase. It signals the end of the active growth of a hair. The hair follicle contracts and detaches from the dermal papilla (where it gets its nutrients). The hair bulb disappears and the root end of the hair forms a rounded club. Less than 1% of the hair will be in the catagen phase at any given time.

Telogen Phase, around 3-6 months. The telogen phase is the resting phase of the hair follicle. At any given time, 10%-15% of all hairs are in the telogen phase. This phase lasts for about 100 days. During this phase the hair follicle is completely at rest. This phase lasts until the fully grown hair is shed or after the start of the next anagen phase when it gets pushed out of the follicle. About 25-100 telogen hairs are shed normally each day.

Once the telogen phase ends, the anagen phase of that follicle begins again. The whole cycle repeats on an average of every 4-5 years.

SO WHAT?
Some people will say that if you’ve been trying to grow your hair for over 5 years, you may have to come to terms with the fact that your hair won’t grow as long as you hoped. This may be true for a rare few, but I really believe that anyone can grow long hair, but I do think that certain people can’t appreciate the growth because of their styling techniques and trimming too often. If you’re trying to grow your hair out quicker, my advice is to stop trimming and start taking care of your ends in order to appreciate/retain all of your growth. I was a victim of the idea that I had to trim my ends every 6-8 weeks. Well, guess what? I was trimming off new length. I was so brainwashed that I had to do this for my hair to grow. I was growing my hair out for several years and still no progress because all this length was scattered about on my stylist’s floor. It’s been well over a year since I had a professional trim and I have retained over 6″, the average. This is not my first time going over a year without a trim, but I do think a year is my threshold. I’m probably going to trim off 1/2″ sometime in the next few weeks just to shape up my hair. I ‘search and destroy’ bad ends as often as necessary and I could probably go much longer without a full trim, it’s just a personal preference. If your ends are messed up and you use heat a lot, I suggest getting a good professional trim. It will be like starting from scratch, but hopefully this time around you treat your hair better.

By Chicoro

Thin ends can mean that your hair is either breaking or growing. If the ends of your hair are not as thick as the bulk of the hair, or if you can see through the ends more so than you can see through the rest of your hair, you have thin ends.

How do you tell if you’re growing or breaking?

Put the scissors down and hold off with the trim before you make a decision!

Straighten your hair or stretch it and take a good, clear, picture of the back of your head to measure the length (Since you are looking at the ends, you don’t want to pull and stretch a section. It is best to straighten or stretch out all of your hair.)

Perform your routine or regimen for at least a month.

Straighten and measure again and take a photo.

This critically important photo will be your baseline measurement.

If your hair is shorter than before, or the same length as before and your ends are thin, it is very likely that your hair is breaking. If your hair is longer than the last time you measured it, but see -through or a bit thinner on the very ends, then your hair is most likely growing to longer lengths. This is how I determine what thin ends mean for me. Right now, my thinner ends mean growth! My ends will not be trimmed because I am using my “Goal Point Method” to reach newer and longer lengths.

To learn more, read my book entitled, “Grow It!”.

originally posted 2/3/08

In my constant quest to find healthier, more natural options in my hair care regimen, I ran across info and raves about the ingredient honeyquat (Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey).

Made from natural honey, Honeyquat is an excellent humectant, binding environmental moisture to itself, thereby increasing the moisturization of skin and hair. Moisture uptake studies show that Honeyquat has twice the moisturizing ability of glycerin. It has the ability to soften and plasticize the skin by adding critical moisture. On hair, it leaves a clean, conditioned feeling, enhancing shine and luster due to its smoothing properties, especially on damaged hair. Honeyquat will help to improve wet-combability of the hair and reduce and eliminate static buildup. -soapdish.com

You can purchase honeyquat from lotioncrafters.com to make your own moisturizer, or when you’re looking to buy a new moisturizer be on the lookout for this awesome ingredient.
Products that contain Honeyquat (Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey) and their hazard scores according to the cosmetic safety database (0-2 low hazard; 3-6 moderate hazard; 7-10 high hazard)

1. modern organic products d-curl straightening balm styling gel/lotion 2
2. Burt’s Bees Super Shiny Grapefruit & Sugar Beet Shampoo shampoo 2
3. modern organic products leave-in conditioner conditioner 3
4. uhaircare Irish Moss Everyday Cleanser shampoo 3
5. uhaircare Irish Moss Everyday Conditioner conditioner 3
6. Dark & Lovely Hair Color Shampoo Moisture Replenish shampoo 4
7. Dark & Lovely Hair Color, Moisture Seal Deep Conditioner conditioner 4
8. Dark & Lovely Moisture Seal Deep Conditioner conditioner 4
9. Bumble and Bumble Bb. Does It All Styling Spray hair spray 4
10. Aura Cacia Amplifying Foam Volumizing Mousse for Fullness & Control styling mousse/foam 4
11. Aura Cacia Reviving Protein Foam Fortifying Boost for Stressed, Limp Hair styling gel/lotion 4
12. Samy Colorcare Conditioner conditioner 5
13. Modern Organic Products Conditioner for Fine Hair, lemongrass conditioner 5
14. Bumble and Bumble Holding Spray hair spray 5
15. Nioxin Bionutrient Actives Cleanser, for Normal Hair shampoo 5
16. Aura Cacia Color Extending Shampoo shampoo 5
17. Aura Cacia Color Retaining Conditioner conditioner 5
18. Aura Cacia Moisture Restoring Conditioner conditioner 5
19. Aura Cacia Rich Moisturizing Shampoo shampoo 5
20. Rusk Sensories Shampoo, Smoother shampoo 6

originally posted 5/27/08

I used to go to a hairstylist every 6-8 weeks to get my hair trimmed until I found out if I took better care of my ends, I could avoid getting trims for as long as I wanted.

How to avoid getting trims?

• Stay away from scissor happy stylist.
• Avoid using direct heat as much as possible.
• Wear protective styles to protect ends from the sun, environment, wind and from rubbing against your clothes.
• Keep your ends moisturized.
• Wear satin/silk scarfs or baggies at night to protect your hair from rubbing against bedding even if you use satin/silk pillowcases.
• Employ the Search and Destroy Method, but learn the dos and don’ts of cutting and always use high quality professional shears.

Your ends are the most fragile part of your hair because they are the oldest, if you want to grow long healthy hair, your ends must be a top priority.

In my opinion trimming is a personal preference. If you like super sleek clean ends, get a trim every 6-8 weeks. I don’t care if my ends aren’t perfectly even since I wear my hair curly 99% of the time and it’s not evident. I have not had my hair trimmed since April 2009 (that’s well over a year). I probably won’t trim until January 2011, but I regularly “Search and Destroy” to rid my hair of weathered ends.

There are a couple of things you need to think about when storing rollers.

If you are planning to hide the rollers in a cabinet or closet, you can buy cheap plastic boxes from a discount store. If you have a store like Family Dollar or Dollar General in your area, you can typically find plastic shoe boxes for about $1. Stores like Wal-Mart and Target will have these boxes too, but you will pay twice as much. You can buy a box for each type of roller. What’s great about these boxes is that they are translucent and stackable, making it easier to grab the rollers whenever you’re ready for them. There are high-end versions of these boxes like the ones below, but if they are going to be hidden, there’s really no need to spend the extra money, princess. This is one way I store rollers that I don’t use on a regular basis. Once you have the box, you can tuck them away in your closet, under your bed, in your linen closet or wherever you want to put them.

In May 2008, I wrote this post about Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Conditioner before I tried it.

I’ve actually heard people having much success with Aubrey Organics and I’ve passed it up quite a few times in Whole Foods. I’m thinking I may have to pick this up next time I see it.


The Promise
For Dry, Brittle Hair
The sweet smell of success for your hair. Trade those dry, thirsty tresses for vibrant, touchable, soft hair with this moisture-intensive conditioner. Restorative herbal emollients detangle and rehydrate to leave hair ultra-silky and irresistibly fragrant. Also recommended for bleached or highlighted hair.
Detangles and smooths for ultra-soft, shiny, touchable hair.


FEATURES BENEFITS:

• Organic Shea Butter & Rosa Mosqueta® Oil
  Deep-condition & protect; soften hair texture
• Organic Aloe
  Replenishes moisture
• Honeysuckle Oil
  Adds a soft, floral scent

Not tested on animals. Biodegradable. Recyclable Container.
Made in USA


Ingredients

---

Coconut Fatty Acid Cream Base, Aloe Vera (Organic), Shea Butter (Organic), Wheat Germ Oil, Jojoba Oil (Organic), Rosa Mosqueta (Organic), Rose Hip Seed Oil, Extract of Fennel, Hops, Balm Mint, Mistletoe, Camomile, Yarrow, Chrysanthemum, Angelica, Forsythia, Honeysuckle Oil, Carrot Oil, Aubrey’s Preservative (Citrus Seed Extract, Vitamin A, C, E)

UPDATE
I tried it and loved it. It became one of my staple deep conditioners. I’ve been out of stock for awhile because I’ve been using Giovanni conditioners, but I definitely will repurchase this in the future. I actually prefer the Rosemary Peppermint version of this conditioner that is only sold at Whole Foods, but this one works just the same. I just love the tingle of the peppermint. The only negative about this product is the packaging: I think it should be sold in a jar. The product is so rich and thick that’s it’s hard to get it out of the bottle. It’s kind of expensive too, so I want to get every last bit of it. I have been known to take a small table saw or scissors and cut the bottle open, sometimes 1/4 of the product is stuck in the bottom and sides of the bottle. Is that a little extreme? Maybe, but I’m not into wasting money. No ma’am. I use about 1/2 the bottle whenever I use it. Is that too much? Maybe, but I’m a conditioner addict.

This is another illustration of The Twist and Coil. This time using larger twists. The twists were undone and then separated and finger styled.

See more Mane and Chic Setting Techniques.

Many people think using a pair of scissors often used for office-related projects will do.  Because of the intended usages of these non-hair scissors, they are often dull or have residue buildup on the blades. When scissors with residue and or dull blades are used to cut or trim hair, the hair follicles can often time bend instead of being trimmed with a clean cut, causing an uneven cut.  The duller the scissors, the more uneven the cut will be. Regular office scissors are also designed to cut through thicker objects such as paper and even cardboard or plastic. Hair follicles are much finer than any of these materials and require a different shape of blade in order to get a clean cut. Every time you cut your hair, using professional hair scissors is absolutely necessary.

Dedicated hair scissors can be found at any drug store, many department stores as well as high-end hair product stores. Based on the style and quality you chose, professional hair shears can cost as little as 50 dollars or as much as several hundred.  A small price to pay when you consider the damage an old pair of dull scissors may inflict on your daily appearance. This regular hair maintenance is very important to keep a healthy, happy head of hair.

About the Author
Jade Greene focuses her expertise on hair scissors and flat irons.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/ – Even the Smallest Trims Call for Professional Hair Shears